Furballs and Remembrance Day Broken Stone Poppy
Just made it in time for Remembrance Day. This morning, I started to knit according to written instruction again for the centre and one petal. Everything should be good.
The yarn over in the pattern is to add extra yarn for the make one increase. If you can see through all that, you can simply remount the yarn over for the increase instead of dropping it. Knowledge on three needle binding will be an advantage in completing this dishcloth. Videos on the technique is readily available on YouTube. Otherwise simple sewing the edges together will work too. The k2tog at the end of some of the rows will used up the stitches from the round disc and get the petal attached to the flower centre.
Furballs and I will appreciate all donations to Veteran Association. We thank you in advance
Happy knitting .... MEOW MEOW until next blog
Furballs and Remembrance Day Broken Stone Poppy
Materials
|
Yarn A (Black centre) |
Yarn B (Red / Blue petals) |
Cotton |
0.2 oz. / 4.4 g
7.0 yd / 6.4 m |
1.9 oz. / 55.0 g
87.9 yd / 80.3 m |
Acrylic |
0.1 oz. / 3.6 g 6.5 yd / 5.9 m
|
1.6 oz. / 44.8 g 81.5 yd / 74.5 m
|
Knitting needles, circular or double point,
size 3.50 mm / US 4, one (1) pair / set
Knitting Crochet hook, size 3.50 mm / US E, one
(1)
Scissors and yarn needle
Gauge (Pre block, broken seed stitch in situ)
4" x 4" / 10 cm x 10 cm 20 sts
x 24 rows (cotton and acrylic)
Measurement (Pre block)
Diameter 10 1/2"
/ 26.7 cm (cotton and acrylic)
Abbreviations
k2tog Knit two (2) stitches together
k Knit
Specialty stitch: Turn and work in German short rows (t&w)
Step 2 Holding working yarn in front, slip the first stitch from the left (holding) needle purlwise onto the right (working) needle
Step 3 Bring the working yarn to the back by pulling the yarn up and over the needle. It is now ready to knit the first stitch (of the next row) on the left (holding) needle. (note that the two legs of the stitch is now showing on the right (working) needle or double stitch). To set up to purl the first stitch of the next row, bring the working yarn to the front through the left of the double stitch
Specialty stitch: Slip one (1) stitch purlwise / part of selvedge (sl1)
Using
3.50 mm crochet hook and yarn A, CO 8 sts using magic ring cast on
Transfer
the cast on stitches onto 3.50 mm knitting needles and start knitting in rounds
Continue to use yarn A unless otherwise stated (knitting chart at the end)
Rnd 1 p1 to join, p to end of rnd
Rnd 2 kfb to end of rnd (+8 sts; 16 sts)
Rnd 3 k to end of rnd
Rnd 4 (m1r, k2) x 8 (+8 sts; 24 sts)
Rnd 5 (p1, p2tog) x 8 (-8 sts; 16 sts)
Rnd 6 kfb to end rnd (+16 sts; 32 sts)
Rnd 7 k to end of rnd
Rnd 8 (m1r, k4) x 8 (+8 sts; 40 sts)
Rnd 9 (p1, p2tog x 2) x 8 (- 16 sts; 24 sts)
Rnd 10 kfb to end of rnd (+24 sts, 48 sts)
Rnd 11 Add B, (B) k to end of rnd
Working
on RS,
Using
working yarn B, CO 13 sts using knitted
cast on from the first stitch of the round
From
now on, use Yarn B only. No need to
carry Yarn A
Start
knitting in modular technique and German short rows (knitting chart at the end),
Row 1 (RS) sl1wyib, yo, (k1,p1) x 4, t&w (+1 st; 10 sts on right needle)
Row 2 (WS) p7, drop yo from previous row, m1p,
yo, k1 (+1 st)
Row 3 sl1,
drop yo from previous row, (yo, m1p), (k1, p1) x 6, t&w (+1 sts; 15 sts on right needle)
Row 4 p12, drop yo from previous row, m1p, yo, k1 (+1
sts)
Row 5 sl1, drop yo from previous row, m1r, (p1, k1) x
7, k2tog. Turn
Row 6 sl1wyif, p15, k1
Row 7 (RS) sl1,
(p1, k1) x 5, p1, t&w
Row 8 (WS) p10, k1
Row 9 sl1, (k1, p1) x 7, t&w
Row 10 p13, k1
Row 11 sl1, (p1, k1) x 7, p1, k2tog. Turn (-1 st)
Row 12 sl1wyif, p15, k1
Row 13 (RS) sl1, (k1, p1) x 6, t&w
Row 14 (WS) p11, k1
Row 15 sl1, (p1, k1) x 7, p1, t&w
Row 16 p14, k1
Row 17 sl1, (k1, p1) x 7, k1, k2tog. Turn
(-1 st)
Row 18 sl1wyif, p15, k1
Rows 19 - 24 Repeat Rows 7 - 12 one (1) time
Rows 25 (RS), 29, 33, 37 sl1, (k1, p1) x 7, t&w
Rows 26 (WS), 30, 34, 38 p13, k1
Rows 27, 31, 35, 39 sl1, (p1, k1) x 7, p1, k2tog. Turn (-1 st)
Rows 28, 32, 36, 40 sl1wyif, p15, k1
Rows 41 - 46 Repeat Rows 7 - 12 one (1) time
Rows 47 - 52 Repeat Rows 13 - 18 one
(1) time
Rows 53 - 58 Repeat Rows 7 - 12 one (1) time
Row 59 (RS) sl1, p2tog, (k1, p1) x 5,
t&w (-1 st)
Row 60 (WS) p8, p2togtbl, k1 (-1 st)
Row 61 sl1, ssk, (p1, k1) x 5, p1, t&w
(-1 st)
Row 62 p9, p2togtbl, k1 (-1 st)
Row 63 sl1, (k1, p1) x 5, k1, k2tog. Turn
(-1 st)
Row 64 s1wyif, p11, k1
Row 65 sl1, p1, psso, (k1, ppso, p1, ppso) x
5, k1, ppso. Turn
Row 66 (WS) sl1wyif, PUP 12 sts from WS
arm of bind off stitches /edge from
previous row
Rows 133 - 198 Repeat Rows 1 - 66 one (1) time
Rows 199 - 263 Repeat Rows 1 - 65 one
(1) time (no need to turn in the last row for this repeat)
Working
on WS, bring the cast on and bind off edges together and join either by
PU
13 arms from cast on (pick up the RS arm) edge with one needle and 12 arms from
bind off (pick up the WS arm) with a second needle. Each PU forms an open loop on needle as
stitch to be used in three (3) needle
bind off
Using a third needle, start the three (3)
needle bind off from centre out
Cut yarn A and B leaving 6" / 15 cm tail
Pull yarn B's tail through the stitch to secure
Weave in all loose end(s)
Cut
yarn B leaving a tail eight (8) times the length of the cast on / bind off
edge. Using simple hand sewing technique, join the two edges
Cut
yarn A leaving 6" / 15 cm tail
Weave in all loose end(s)
Blocking optional
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